Tag Archives: badlands

Prairie Love

There are studies, I suppose, on the ways our physical environments shape us. I don’t mean the obvious environment psychologists talk about; the neighborhood, the house, the presence of books or harsh words. I mean the environment outside the window, the creek, the mountain, the wide open sky, a fence row that goes on forever, the next house a speck on the horizon.


Or no house on the horizon, and sometimes no horizon, either. Where I live, where I have always lived, I must go in hunt of the skyline, and it is a drive.

South Dakota is a land of horizons, of prairie, a place where standing on a second floor balcony the rain comes in from off, signaled by darkening sheets of rain too small to cover the whole horizon, just a part of it. The rain moves back to front, or left to right, and it will reach you some time, but leaving you plenty of time for speculation and a chat.


I want to drive across Nebraska. I am told this is because I have never driven across Nebraska. That the wheat and road are incessant, a trial to be endured, not enjoyed. But I don’t know. I think that sounds like a wonderful thing to see and do. Drive and drive, scenery unchanging, but new to me, and therefore, exciting. The prairie grass rolling like waves, and what it must be to see a rise in the landscape, to see the change coming but not able to judge the distance, not quite yet, and if at all.


I asked people I met out in South Dakota what it was like growing up with the Black Hills for a backdrop, to drive an hour and be in the Badlands. To have so much sky. They smiled and said it was nice, and didn’t quite get the question, as I wouldn’t quite get the question if put to me. One woman said her father, who was a rancher, never looked at the sky all that much. His grandchildren asked why his walked with his head down, always down.


“I raised cows,” he had said. “I have to watch where I step.”


But this must be the exception, surely.


I don’t realize how flat Daviess County is until friends from Eastern Kentucky point it out. They find they can only be away from their mountains for just a little bit before they miss them, the “sheltering hills” James Still wrote of. I can only be in those same mountains for a few days before they begin to close in on me, make me work a little harder to breathe. So, not sheltering to me, but oppressive.


Give me the same mountains farther south, in Tennessee. Then I am tenderhearted toward them. But that is because they roll differently there. Towns and bergs are nestled in broad green valleys, valleys we can look down into from overlooks or the high winding roads. A vista of sorts.


My mother’s people came here from England. I can almost prove it on paper, I think, but I can prove it for certain when I travel there. That green and pleasant land. The gentle landscape that is broad and human-scaled. The fields and meadows, the hillocks that ring a village, the ones with the benches at their crest, inviting us to sit and gaze out on the houses below, and watch the sky change from blue to gray to navy.


I have sat on such benches and feel, in a visceral way, that it isn’t the first time I’ve sat there, and not in this century. I do a lot of sighing then, content, and warm with affection, as I catch my breath.


I feel the same in Ireland, where every rock-bound field sits not too far above sea level. They have their mountains, I think of the Wicklow Mountains, but they are gentle and promise, as one travel books said, “sweeping views and plenty of space to sit and have a cuppa.” Stand at Cumberland Gap and wonder how this could have been the best spot to cross into the West. Then meander up and down Sally Gap Drive in the Wicklow hills for comparison. And there is no comparison, none at all.


Willa Cather, American writer, was born in the Shenandoah Valley, but grew up in Nebraska. She knew something about about mountains, and also vistas, and open sky. She says, this, about that:


“Anybody can love the mountains, but it takes a soul to love the prairie.”


What soul I have for landscape, sits beside Willa Cather’s.

Wall Drug and Then Some

Our first outing was for ice water. Free ice water and sixty miles away. We giggled the whole way there. My pal, Donna, and I had arrived in Rapid City, South Dakota and on our first morning we decided it was too overcast to rush over to Mount Rushmore. We would go to Wall, SD, first and stop in at the drug store for some free ice water.


And cheap coffee.


And donuts.


Last December I found myself with some airline credit that had to be used up so Donna and I headed west to make up for a driving trip we had cancelled during COVID. I had a package to mail, so I brought it with me, and we headed to Wall Drug, with intentions of mailing that package, seeing what all the fuss was about, besides ice water, and then to head into the Badlands.


Well. I have to say, kitsch though it may be, Wall Drug was a favorite, starting with the Burma Shave-like signs that began showing up, twenty miles out. The story goes, Ted Hustead and his young family bought the l drug store in the tiny town of Wall, population 326, in 1931. Giving themselves five years to make a go of it, the timeline was almost up, when his wife, Dorothy, lay down for an afternoon nap one hot and miserable Sunday.


She got up fairly quickly, with an idea of how to entice all the travelers rolling down highways 14 and 16, just outside Wall. Those people are thirsty, she said. What do they want? Ice water!


She had even dreamed up the little jingle that would bring the travelers in. 
 “Get a soda…get a root beer…turn next corner…just as near…free ice water…Wall Drug.”

And that, my friends, is how you do it. After the homemade signs went up out along the prairie roads, the cars started coming and they haven’t stopped since.


Now, Wall Drug is just about what you would expect. A sprawling enterprise that takes up an entire city block, one can envision an Old West wooden sidewalked city block, and it has so many little shops and emporiums it is hard to locate the original Wall Drug store. But it is in there somewhere, and I bought some fancy sea salt lotion, just to prove it. They have old timey picture studios, with hat and bonnet props, gem and rock shops, any one of several souvenir shops, and stations out back for all that free ice water.


On the day we visited the water was dispensed from a regular soda fountain, but it was very cold. I know I am suggestible, but I defy you find colder water anywhere. Donna generously treated me to that five cent coffee, which I couldn’t drink, but she enjoyed because, you know, a nickel. I would have gladly paid a dollar for someone to take it from my lips.


But the donuts!


Oh, my, the donuts were wonderful. And I don’t usually like this kind of donut, but these were warm and cakey, but also a little yeasty, and I have no idea why we didn’t buy an entire bag of them–they were sitting right there on the counter–but now I want to see if they can ship them.


It is a roadside attraction of the most American kind. The coffee and donuts were added to the tradition when they installed the Minuteman missile silos in the area. The Husteads figured the military personnel would want cheap hot coffee and donuts on their travels to and from work. And, it turns out, so did we.

We spent an hour wandering around like good tourists do, and headed out for the Badlands, a place I have heard of forever but couldn’t have described to save my life. There is much to say about them, and I will, but for now, two words: prairie dogs. Okay, three words: prairie dog villages.

Ask anyone and they will tell you, I am not much of an animal lover. But, you all. I have never seen anything cuter than those little praise dogs. And they really do live in villages, and they, along with my donuts and ice water, were my first introduction to South Dakota and I was smitten.